Clean-up Pressure Bleeder

Used Isopropyl Alcohol (Shoppers Drug Mart) instead of Denatured Alcohol.

And top up brake fluid. Maybe leaking. Need to investigate.

Rear sides have no sign of leaking.

Brake Fluid Replacement

Mileage: 94,000 KM

Required tools: pressure bleeder pump, 11mm combination wrench

1. Place car on ramp and applied hand brake.

2. Extract brake fluid from reservoir as much as possible upto the bottom of strainer.

3. Bleed 100ml from clutch slave cylinder at 15 psi and close it and release pressure from pump
and apply clutch around 5 times fast enough and check if clutch is working properly.
If pedal stays at lower position making less travel distance, pull it back to upper normal
position by hand. Tried to maintain 15 psi while bleeding by bleeding slowly for laminar flow.

4. Close cap of the pump and pressurize the pump to 15 psi.

5. Bled brake calipers at 15psi in the following order.

Rear/Right (250ml)
Rear/Left (250ml)
Front/Right (250ml)
Front/Left (250ml)

6. Check brake function. If OK, reliefe pressure from pump and check fluid level.

7. Take test spin around.

Front Rotor & Brake Pads Replaced

Mileage: 94,000 KM

Wagner rotors(90 Dollars) and Monroe pads(50 Dollars) and VW rubber bushings (70 dollars) used.

Used Silicon grease on rubber bushings (I got some grease VW dealership)

Note: pad wear limit sensor is equipped on left hand side only.

Thinkpad T30 Disassembly for foreign materials within

I noticed something is moving around inside my laptop and started to open it until getting at the system board level. It is anyhow down and waiting for DIMM (512MB DDR PC2100S from http://www.usanotebook.com/). It was good time to investigate what is walking around. Found out plastic boby for female thread is broken and the coressponding bolt with nut is spinning around. Reassembled my laptop and still same thing.

Rear Brake Repair

Mileage at 92,500KM.

Problem: squeaking noise on rear left hand side brake and found outside edge of rotor and brake pad are rubbing. Brake pad is separated from backing plate.

Place tyre and wooden block and unused book under car body for emergency. Placed wedge block front tires and rear tire. Released hand brake.

Replaced L/H rear brake rotor and pads with 3M dual-face adhesive remained on backing plate.

Replaced R/H rear brake rotor and pads with 3M dual-face adhesive removed on backing plate.

I think adhesive should be remained based on Bentley manual. I should have cleaned up bonding surfaces for pads of the calipers. I am afraid I missed the points. But not big deal. Top sliding pin is stepped type meanwhile bottom one is straight type. Removed hand brake cable from caliper. Cleaned up gear teeth of ABS speed sensing. Cleaned up rotor with brake cleaner.

Pushing back piston is a bit hard when starting. Need a bit of breaking power to start to rotate and push. No risk of overflooding of reservoir as long as fluid reservior level is between Min and Max. Distance between tip of piston and the innner bonding surface of the caliper is around 48mm after resetting caliper. You can rotate and push piston until it reaches the bottom of the cylinder. When installing rotor applied some anti-seize compound.

Required tools: Resetting tool(http://www.metalnerd.com/), 13mm closed wrench and 15mm open end wrench, 11mm closed wrench, brake fluid catching bottle, tube for bleeding, hammer.

Materials: 4 original rear brake pads from VW(CDN82.00), two rotors from Wagner at canadian Tire(CDN66.00), Brake cleaner, Scotch Brite, clean rag, brake fluid just in case